You Can Use the Shells?

It had never occurred to me to treat lobster (and crab shells for that matter) as soup "bones". While we didn't make Keller's lobster bisque with the shells, I decided to make my own version (also because we didn't have all the ingredients that other recipes called for). It is loosely based on one of my favorite foods - lobster sauteed in ginger and scallion. It smells amazing, delicious on its own and I'm thinking of cooking rice in it. And I will NEVER throw away shells without making stock again.

* The shells from two 1 1/2-pound lobsters (about 1 1/3 pounds)
* 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
* 2 medium leeks, white and pale green only, thinly sliced crosswise (about 1 1/3 cups)
* * 2 cups Chinese cooking wine (rice wine)
* ginger
* 2 ripe tomatoes
* About 7 cups water

1. Using kitchen shears, cut the shells into 2-inch pieces. In a large (14-inch), heavy saucepan, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil over high heat. Add the lobster shells and sauté, tossing frequently, until fragrant, 6 minutes. (If you don't have a large enough pan, sauté them in two batches). Push the shells to one side of the pan and add the remaining tablespoon olive oil to the empty side. Reduce the heat to medium, add the leeks to the oil and toss with the tongs; sauté until softened and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the ginger and sauté 1 minute.

2. Stir in the wine, Squash the tomatoes in your hands and add to the pot. Add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Simmer 1 hour, adding water as necessary to keep the shells covered with liquid.

3. Pour the broth through a fine strainer, pressing to extract all liquid from the solids. Pour into plastic containers and let cool completely before refrigerating or freezing.

The broth will keep 3 days in the refrigerator, and several months in the freezer.

Last Supper (of 2008)

Menu
Appetizer: Maryland Crab Cake
Salad: Arugula Salad with Lemon Dressing and Shaved Parmesan Cheese
Main Course: Lobster Poached in Butter over Sweet Corn
Dessert: Coconut Sorbet with Clementines/ pecan pie

We were ambitious. We left the house at around 5 to round up ingredients. The Safeway was completely ransacked. The heaping mound of potatoes was completely cleared out. They didn't have any of our proteins - short ribs, lobster, crab - or a french baguette! We got as much as we could and headed to Giant which was much better stocked. I discovered that "back rib" is the same as "short rib." And, you can have your seafood cooked to order at the seafood counter. I was drooling from the smell of steamed shrimp cooking in Old Bay while waiting for M to get our lobsters. We got home at around 7:30 and got to work.

Honestly, I don't think I'll ever cook lobster again. It was unbelievably sad to put them into the boiling water. Then I had to break them down and that took a really long time. The original recipe calls for orzo cooked with 2 cups of heavy cream which would make me very sick. I decided to cook some sweet corn in the same butter that the lobster was poached in and serve them together at around 9 PM. It turned out really well. As you can see (or not see), I didn't get around to the salad.

M's crab cakes were AMAZING and paired really well with Hoegaarden beer. Here's the recipe (adapted from cooks.com):
MARYLAND CRAB CAKES

1 lb. fresh Maryland backfin or lump crabmeat
4 heaping tablespoons Hellmann's real mayonnaise
1/2-1 teaspoon regular yellow mustard
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp fresh ground black pepper (see note)
1 teaspoons salt (to taste) - Don't add any salt if there is salt on your saltines
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 pouch Saltine crackers from box (crushed with a rolling pin)
1 extra large egg, beaten well
1/2 cup fresh parsley, minced

In a medium bowl, hand pick crabmeat and discard any shell particles. Add salt and pepper (you can alter your salt to taste but NOT the black pepper!)

In another bowl, mix all wet ingredients. Gently fold mixture into crabmeat. Add baking powder, parsley, and about 1/4 cup of crushed Saltines to your crabmeat; again fold in very gently.

On a plate, place your crushed Saltines and scoop a medium sized crab cake from your mixture in your hands. Coat with cracker again just enough to cover your cake.

In a skillet heat oil for frying (preferably cast Iron pan) gently place crabcakes in frying temperature oil and brown evenly on both sides. Be careful that your oil is not to hot and should never be smoking!! Crabcakes are ready when brown on both sides usually a few minutes per side. Do not overcook! Drain on paper towels serve immediately.

Yields about six crab cakes.

Lobster Poached in Butter

M and I had the unbelievable fortune of having home cooked meals this entire weekend. As you know, home cooking is my new thing and man, we were so spoiled. L & J and M & M both put together these incredible spreads and my mom made her unbelievable beef stew for Sunday dinner. I didn't get sick and am so satisfied and happy. So, M and I are going to cook fancy meals at home. I have always wanted to have Thomas Keller's lobster poached in butter so here it is (we'll skip the dairy stuff - outside of butter, of course)...

Butter-Poached Lobster with Creamy Lobster Broth and Mascarpone-Enriched Orzo
(adapted from The French Laundry Cookbook by Thomas Keller)

To summarize what needs to be done:
1. Bake Parmesan crisps
2. Steep lobsters in hot water-vinegar solution
3. Remove partially cooked meat from lobsters
4. Use shells to make lobster bisque
5. Cook orzo (pasta) in boiling water, drain, mix with lobster bisque, and add mascarpone cheese
6. Poach lobster meat in Beurre Monté
7. Assemble and serve.

Special utensils: a silicon mat and an instant-read thermometer.

Parmesan Crisps

- ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Place a 2-inch cookie-cutter or ring mold on a silicon mat/Silpat-lined pan and evenly sprinkle 2 tsps of cheese into the mold. Remove mold and repeat with remaining cheese.

Bake at 325F for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Use an offset spatula to transfer crisps to paper towels, and store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Makes about 12 crisps.

Lobster Meat

- 3 live lobsters, 1.5 to 2 lbs each

This method of preparation will cook the lobster just enough to allow the meat to be removed from its shell. Once the meat has been removed, you’ll have more control over its taste and texture.

Place one lobster in a tight-fitting pot or heat-proof container. Pour water into the pot until it fully covers the lobster. Transfer water from the pot into a measuring cup to measure the amount of water used. This is the amount of water you’ll need to cook the lobster. From my experience, 4 litre/4 quarts water is usually sufficient.

In a separate large pot, boil the water needed, and add ¼ cup white vinegar for every 4 litres/4 quarts of water. Pour water-vinegar solution over the lobster until it covers the lobster completely, and let the lobster steep for 2 minutes for a 1.5 lb lobster, or 3 minutes for a 2 lb lobster.

Remove lobster and using gloves or a towel, twist the tail in one direction to remove it from the body. Twist off the lobster’s arms (knuckles and claws) and return them to the pot of hot water to cook for an additional 5 minutes.

To remove the tail meat, hold the tail flat and twist the tail fan in one direction to remove. Using your fingers, gently push the meat from the back of the tail and out the front. Cut the tail in half lengthwise, and remove the large red vein.

To remove the claw meat, separate the claw from the knuckles and pull the small pincer claw down, until it loosens. Gently wiggle the lower pincer from side to side (horizontally) until it separates from the meat. Use the heel of a chef’s knife to crack the upper claw about ¾-inch from the knuckle joint. If meat cannot be loosened, crack the shell on the opposite side. Remove claw meat in one piece and discard any cartilage or remaining shell.

To remove knuckle meat, use scissors to cut the shell along the smooth outside edge of the knuckle.

Place meat on a paper towel-lined plate, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to use. Rinse shells and reserve for lobster bisque. Repeat with the remaining lobsters. If your lobsters are female, reserve the dark green roe from the body and tail. Fry the roe in a teaspoon of canola oil until it turns bright red. Finely chop roe and use as a garnish or save for another use.

Lobster Bisque and Orzo

- ¼ cup canola oil
- 3 lobster shells cut into quarters (about 12 oz)
- 1 ½ cup chopped tomatoes
- ½ cup chopped carrots
- -½ oz tarragon
- 2 cups heavy cream
- ½ cup orzo
- 2 tbsp mascarpone cheese
- salt to taste

In a large pot, heat oil over medium-high heat and sear lobster shells (in several batches if necessary) for 1 or 2 minutes, or until they turn red. Add tomatoes, tarragon and carrots, cover the shells and vegetables with water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer for about 1 hour. Skim off any impurities that float to the surface.

Strain stock through a large sieve or chinois, making sure to remove all the liquid. Discard the shells and vegetables. In a pot, simmer the stock until reduced to 1 cup. Add the heavy cream and simmer until it thickens to sauce consistency and is reduced to 1 - 1 ¼ cups. Strain the broth into a container. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.

Bring a small pot of lightly salted water to a boil and add orzo. Cook until just tender and drain under cold water into a strainer. Shake strainer to remove excess water and add orzo to lobster broth. In a small pot, heat orzo and broth to a simmer and whisk in mascarpone cheese. Season with salt to taste, and simmer for one minute. Reduce heat to low and keep warm, stirring occasionally.

Butter-Poached Lobster

- 1 tbsp water
- ½ to ¾ lb unsalted butter, cut into small chunks
- lobster pieces

Remove lobster from refrigerator and leave for several minutes to bring to room temperature.

In a saucepan, heat water until boiling and whisk in one or two chunks of butter to form an emulsion (called Beurre Monté). Reduce heat to low and continue to whisk in butter, one chunk at a time, until the Beurre Monté is about 1-inch high.

Use an instant-read thermometer to maintain the temperature of the Beurre Monté between 160F and 190F during cooking.

Add lobster pieces to Beurre Monté (in several batches if necessary), and cook for 5 or 6 minutes. If lobster pieces are not fully covered, use a spoon to gently turn over after 3 minutes.

Assembly

- 1 tbsp finely minced chives
- Fried lobster roe (optional)

In a shallow bowl or plate, place 1/3 cup of the orzo and lobster broth (the macaroni and cheese) in the centre of the dish. Use a spoon to transfer one lobster tail onto the orzo. Fold one piece of knuckle meat in half and insert in the centre of the tail, so that it sticks up. Balance one Parmesan crisp on the knuckle meat, and garnish with chives and lobster roe. Serve immediately.

The remaining six claws can either be added to the existing dishes, eaten alone, or used for another dish, such as a salad. Alternatively, you can send any leftovers to me!

Makes 6 servings.

From: http://www.alacuisine.org/alacuisine/2004/10/butterpoached_l.html

Price of Lobsters is Down!

N stopped by my desk and dropped the big news - the price of lobsters have been declining all summer! What, how is this not front page news? And, why did I not know about this sooner? I could've been gorging myself on delightful crustaceans all summer? Yes, this after my conversation with M about how a record number of children in the US are enrolled in school free meal programs and how families are struggling to feed themselves on $100 a week.

But, back to the lobsters. Let's look at the supply chain. Lobstermen need to pay for their boats and traps. There really isn't much more than that. They know that lobsters are a regional product - no global mass market or speculating on lobster futures. There are few local outlets for the lobstermen to sell to and distributors are pushing down prices because they are being hammered by rising prices of food. Lastly, the consumer. They are struggling to pay for gas for their car. They are not buying lobsters so demand has been way down.

I just read about services in Maine where you could own a lobster trap and the lobsterman sends you anything you catch from May to December. It costs about $3000 and you can get 40-50 lobsters and each shipment of lobsters comes with clams, mussels, a Maine-made dessert, bibs, cooking instructions and a gift card, plus free shipping. You can even track your trap online!

Let's eat!

*Ed's Lobster Bar

New York is a place where in an instant, you can be transported to anywhere in the world. Or, as I like to see it, the best of the world comes to you. L and I were supposed to do our usual Chinatown excursion - the bustling street markets, dark passages to forbidden goods, bakeries of fluffy yummies, unbelievable food for a song (yeah, it's under fluorescent lights and you're sharing a table but you don't care because you're sucking the glistening ginger scallion lobster sauce from your fingers).

Alas, we were waylaid by the 6 train and spit out at Bleeker instead of Spring Street. Above ground, the area reminded me of a dinner I had at Ed's Lobster Bar with a Wellesley friend in the winter and I thought, hey, let's go to New England!

I love L for a number of reasons - 1 is she is always game. I was immediately drawn to her during orientation at Stern. She was across the room and said that she went to Barnard and had gone sky-diving. She was my kind of girl and we've been tight ever since. She also has a job that I would love to do - retail analyst. I LOVE talking to her about what is going on with the economy, malls, stores, trends, consumers - all of that.

Ed's Lobster Bar is bright, cheery and you can feel the ocean breezes and almost hear the waves crashing and seagulls in the distance. The food is simple and unbelievably fresh. We enjoyed an oyster sampler and each one - even the ones with creamy liquor that I don't normally like - were DIVINE. It was an extravagance because I told the server multiple times "half-dozen, HALF-dozen!!!" L had the skate which was beautiful, crispy and light. I had originally ordered one of their famous lobster rolls but

I don't eat the roll and M has put mayo on my list of things that make me sick and not to eat. I ended up with a half chilled lobster ("Half lobster, HALF LOBSTER!") and ate it like a pro (I have watched Wolfgang Puck's episode on how to get every morsel of meat out of a lobster and my favorite day ever at Wellesley was all-you-can-eat lobster day where I devoured 4 of those suckers!). Just lobster, lemon and some cocktail sauce. Perfection. I also took a picture of this gorgeous jumbo shrimp cocktail.

We enjoyed 2 glasses of white wine with the meal - a muscadet and an albarino. Albarino is my favorite white wine. It is crisp, light, smooth and opens up your food's flavor. I was introduced to it on the date with the girl who called me "SASS-ay!" Needless to say, although I fell in love with the wine and not the girl, I thank her for the introduction. We finished a perfect meal with a beautiful blueberry creme brulee. I took a Lactaid, ate it with gusto and am pleased to report, am fine.

It was a beautiful evening and we walked down Spring St. window-shopping. I did end up buying a necklace from a street vendor but at least this time, we didn't have to run to the cash machine multiple times as we normally end up doing in Chinatown! Thanks for an amazing dinner, L!
http://www.lobsterbarnyc.com/